The hidden art of Pleating

Once regarded as a symbol of royalty, the art of pleating has adorned garments reserved for queens and pharaohs since ancient Egypt. Perfectly aligned pleats were entirely handcrafted on silk or cotton fabrics, representing refinement and nobility. Maintaining those crisp folds after washing was nearly impossible, turning pleating into a mark of meticulous craftsmanship in haute couture. Throughout European history, pleated details continued to hold a place of prestige, most notably seen in the iconic ruff collars of England's Elizabethan era — where every fold carried a sense of ceremony and status. In the early 20th century, designer Mariano Fortuny elevated pleating to pure artistry with his Delphos gown — a masterpiece of silk, weightless, sculptural, and impossibly delicate. More than half a century later, Delphos dresses remain coveted by collectors as living fashion heritage, with some fetching over $10,000 apiece.